Archive for May, 2008

The Entirety of Life in Rural Japan

Wednesday, May 28th, 2008
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In Tokyo, we went to work with people around our own age. If someone retires, we hold a party for them and say our goodbyes. We never witnessed what happened to these people outside of our office setting, people around us get old and move on. Usually, we don’t see them die unless we are old as well. Every once in a while ours, or a co-worker’s parent or grandparent dies, and we feel sympathy for their loss. Still, for someone in their 30s, really knowing someone who dies is a relatively rare and often tragic experience.

Monday night when I went to the volunteer fire-brigade trumpet practice, I heard that a previous trumpet brigade captain had died earlier that day. While the name was not mentioned, I deduced that it was the old inn-keeper in Akiyama which we frequent often. He was over 80 y/o. Aside from his own traditional hunting skills, passed on by his own father - a matagi hunter, he took with him an incredible depth of knowledge about the area and traditions - he shared his knowledge at the annual yakibatake (field burning) event which is an attempt to keep alive an important tradition of the area. He was also recognized and honored by the emperor of Japan for his own hunting skills and contributions to keeping Japanese culture alive. It is a big loss.

I was invited to take a hike up Naeba with him this spring, but felt I was “too busy”… so I cancel led. I lost a truly “One Life” opportunity.

What does this have to do with the difference between my previous live in Tokyo and the reality of where we live now? Well, most of the neighbors we see and talk to on a regular basis are in their 60s or older. Our next-door neighbor, whom we love chatting as much as she loves snooping into what we are up to, is 87. The only surviving geta (wooden sandal) maker we visit often is in his late 70s. The famous ex-mayor of Sakae, who just retired last month, is 79. The neighbor we learn all our farming from is in her late 60s. Most of the people I chat with in the bath are in their 80s. We often visit one of the oldest women in the village - the 96 year old Ise-san, whose family was killed in a large avalanche that buried their house in sixty years ago.

Siblings

Life and death is so much more real here. Sometimes it means Tomoe being upset that her sprouts died because they were left too long in the sun, or the peanut plants killed by ants, and sometimes its an amazing organic farmer that died last fall before we even had a chance to meet and learn from him. Now we visit his widow every now and then, but she will most likely be gone within ten years as well.

Living in a community like this, I know many more people who die in the next ten years than I ever would have in Tokyo, where my activities were restricted to work and play with “young” folks. Here I will (and do) know three or four generations of the families around us. I spent an hour at my rice-field the other day catching frogs with the five-year-old granddaughter of the neighbor who was hospitalized two weeks ago after a motor-scooter accident. He is 80+ and lives across the the river, aside from seeing him and simply waving because of the roar of the rive that separates us, I often met him in the bath or on the street. He shared his home with me on New Year’s day and I promissed to go back soon, and this time bring Tomoe. I now regret that I have not been back.

What made me start to think about this is that when I heard about the hunter’s death, I felt sad, I felt loss (despite the fact that I have only talked to him a few times). I took on the “appropriate” expression and said something about how sad that is. The young (30s - 50s) people around me continued smoking, laughing, discussing it matter-of-factly. The mood did not change one beat as they decided who would go to a memorial event to blow their trumpets. (I can’t really make the trumpet sound like it is supposed to, or I would have joined). I realized that they are much more used to or in-tune with reality of life and death. They see it all the time. One might say that they are just “cold” or “numbed” to it, but I think that they felt just as much (much more for sure) loss than I did, but they also were not so sheltered so as to dwell on its sadness.

Am I really mentally and emotionally prepared for life in a place where the “young people’s party” consists of 50 year olds?

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Sold Out

Sunday, May 25th, 2008
Tomoe Selling SansaiYukinoshita & Fuji no Hana

This morning we set up a booth at the local sansai (mountain vegetable) festival. To our surprise, we sold out within two hours, and are kicking ourselves for not picking more. The problem with most unprocessed sansai however, is that it is really only good to sell the same day or, in some cases, two days after picking. If we had taken too many bamboo shoots and were not able to sell them, we would have no idea what to do with so many leftovers.

Tomoe Selling SansaiMagare Take no ko (bamboo shoots)All you can grab - 300 yen

I think we were the first to sell all ours because of our innovative marketing strategy -basically, do something unique. Most of the people had the same goods, and many of them were higher quality because pros just “know” which warabi or bamboo shoots will sell, and so don’t pick as many “lower-quality” as we did. In order to differentiate, we offered a little game whereby customers can take one shot at grabbing as many of our “too-thin” bamboo shoots as they could fit in one hand for about half the price of our 500g bundle. This drew enough people to our booth that we soon had to start refilling the “dud” pile with our “good” shoots - which were also selling extremely well at the higher price.

I also got up early this morning and rode into the mountain in the rain to pick the purple flowers you see in the photo. These are from the Fuji tree, and are said to be quite delicious as tempura. We had never had them ourselves, but told everyone how great they tasted while adding a bit of exoticness and color to our table. It worked, and we even sold all ten of the flowers we brought.

While we didn’t really make a whole lot of money this time, based on what we know now, we could easily make enough to live on just doing this each weekend. Hmmm….

Our Sansai (wild veggies)

Other things you see at our table, left to right: gyojaninniku (field garlic), Yama Fuki (stems only), warabi (a type of edible fern), take no ko (ne-magari-take) (bamboo shoots), yama udo (Japanese Spikenard), Zenmai (another type of fern - you can seephotos of how they are processed on a previous post), and finally, the tempura tray - fuji flowers, yukinoshita (strawberry begonia), and kogomi leaves.

Our Sansai (wild veggies)

Big thanks to our neighbor who showed us where to pick, let us get some from her land, and also spent a long time teaching us how to prepare them for sale.

Help from the neighbor

Kaiko (Silkworms)

Sunday, May 11th, 2008
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This is the English portion from my new blog documenting the life of my silk-worms. The blog is in both English and Japanese.

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Yesterday, the local grade-school teacher gave me a brood of kaiko (silk worm) eggs. Many of them had already hatched, but there are still some eggs left. The silkworms eat kuwa (mulberry) leaves, but I had no idea where to gather the leaves. This morning I awoke to find hundreds of hungry worms waiting for breakfast. Luckily, the sensei appeared at the door with a handful of kuwa leaves, and took me out to show me where to find them on my own.

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Today’s Silkworm Observation Report
Growth Stage:
Room Temperature:13.5 - 14 c (however, we do not heat our home, so the night time temperatures must have been cooler)
Length:2.5mm
Weight:To small to weigh

Things I noticed:
As I picked them up with tweezers, they were already spinning silk threads. I wonder if this is something they always do, or only something they do when they are surprised or afraid. If it is something they do constantly, they must have an enormous appetite. I have a lot of work ahead of me to gather enough leaves.

While I was looking at one under the magnifying glass, it committed suicide, leaping to its death from my finger in to the carpet. As much as I searched, I was not able to find him among the long fibers. Rest in peace Thomas (that was the name I had given him just before he jumped).

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Morning Walk

Saturday, May 10th, 2008
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Stress levels are running high recently as some important deadlines draw near. We have planted about 1/3 of our fields, having spent a lot of time just getting them ready to use. Some of them were abandoned and overcome with weeds, others were tended by our elderly neighbor who was not able to remove all the big rocks which took us a few days to dig out.

We have so much to do, and so little time. Everything here changes so quickly. I had hoped to get photos to “document” the year, but if I miss even one day, the scenery has changed. I completely missed any photo-op with the cherry blossoms, and the budding of the leaves - when everything is a different shade of green - jumped up on me and is now finished.

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We have finally been getting the hang of waking up early, taking morning jogs or walks at 6am (although the sun comes up at 4:30). Along the way we pick bag-fulls of fresh wild vegetables growing on the mountain sides. It is addictive. We know we have other work to do, and it is getting late, but we just cant stop picking as long as there are any in sight - and there always are.

Add to that the fact that every turn in the road is so beautiful that I end up taking photo after photo, and you can understand why ours is the only rice-paddy in the village that is not ready to be planted and the neighbors are all talking.

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Sansai Extravaganza

Saturday, May 10th, 2008
Warabi in Ashes

Well, our morning run turned into a hard morning bike ride (easier on my knees which will soon turn 34). What was supposed to be about an hour, turned into three. The the spring veggies within morning walk distance are, for the most part, too old now. Ride a bike to the end of the mountain road, however, and there is still snow and the sansai wild veggies there think that spring has just begun. This is our harvest today.

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What you see here:

The first photo in this post is young warabi covered with ashes in order to remove the astringents. While some of the other Sansai are just about finished, this is just now coming out. We have an exciting week ahead of us.

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One year worth of tsukushi buds (the flower of horsetail) for pest-control. Thanks to Tomoe’s tireless research, we learned that tsukushi is not only delicious (Craig, if you are reading, that is one of the dishes you really liked), but it is also an effective insect replant. The only problem is that you have to find them when they are young and still have the pollen in them. Unfortunately, we did not know about their natural pest-control properties before, so when young tsukushi were abundant in our area, we ate them all for dinner.

Luckily, there was still a secret patch of pollen-filled tsukushi up in the higher altitudes, so we picked what we expect to be a year worth. (1kg - note, this is not enough to cover all of our plants for the entire year, but the same stuff should not be used all year long, and different seasons bring different pests, which call for different plants to control them)

The second photo shows the infertile part of the horsetail, called sugina in Japanese, and yomogi. The bottom photo is dandelion. These too are quite delicious as well, but in this case we picked them for use as a fungicide and to stave off diseases in our crops.

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The red flower is Tsubaki (Camellia). This is also for insect control. Apparently, drying them and boiling them to be sprayed around your crops will keep the bugs at bay for a short time. It is said that tulips have the same effect, so we will be collecting tulips from our neighbors as they die, and planting some ourselves for use in the future.

As an aside, tulips are especially popular here because although we have three meters of snow, the ground never freezes, so unlike cold areas, tulip bulbs can be planted quite shallow, and they are eager to shoot out once the snow melts.

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In addition to plants for natural pest and disease control, we also gathered lots of goodies to eat.

The photo above is tar-no-me -the buds of the Tara tree. These are excellent a tempura. Our neighbor cultivates these for sale (a great subject for another interesting post) and gives us his left-overs, but when we ate the wild ones it was quite different. Maybe it is just that we picked it ourselves, but somehow they tasted amazing. Tomoe claims that today’s was the best lunch she has had all year.

There are other poisonous trees that look similar to tara, but don’t have the spikes. These are urushi, or Japanese Sumac. Great for making lacquer, but not so great to touch (or eat!). Somewhere this year, Tomoe and I have both come into contact with urushi, and have itchy spots in various places on our bodies. It is supposed to spread, but we are lucky that so far it has remained in one spot.

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In our soup, we had nemagari-dake bamboo shoots. (a type of sasa. These are just coming out now, and the mountain side is filled with these thin bamboo relatives. This is also what we used to make kanjiki snow shoes.

Peel the outer layer away to reveal the tender inside, boil it to remove to bitterness, and you have a sought after delicacy in Japan.

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Zenmai (Japanese Royal Fern), is a staple sansai in this area. We have been collecting it for a month now, gradually moving higher in altitude, but still able to find some near our home. Most people around here have a field where they are cultivating the fern. It is a lot of work to dig out a wild zenmai fern and transplant it into a field, but with a lot of fertilizers, they can grow much larger than the wild natural version.

The problem with zenmai, is that you have to process it the same day you pick it, and processing is time consuming. First, you have to peel away all the fuzz on the outside. In the old days, this fuzz was used to stuff pillows and futons. Then, you have to separate the male from female, and pluck the heads off the male. Once everything is ready, you boil them (our neighbor is helping out in the photo above) and dry them in the sun, but have to massage them every hour or so to make sure that they do not get too tough and stringy. Its a big challenge every time we see a patch of wild zenmai - we have to decide if we have time to take care of them that day, or if we should leave them until next time - when it may be too late.

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There are two more vegetables we harvested which I did not get good close-ups of this time. The first, the big green pile in the upper right corner of our sansai harvest pile is fuki. Most people know this as “the taste of spring”, and its buds are eaten as tempura. The ones we picked are considered to be a little too old, but it is delicious none the less. In the areas where snow still remains, there were a few buds which Tomoe did include in her lunch yesterday.

Finally, there is a small plant in the lower left corner. I will have a close up soon enough, but this is itadori (Japanese knotweed) - a plant that taste very much like rhubarb. Rhubarb is hard to come by in Japan, and I was happy to find this. After some experimenting, I have now learned how to remove all the fibrous materials that make it inedible, and leave only the oh-so-sweet sour flesh. Yesterday I made some “rhubarb” sauce (it is not actually in the rhubarb family), and it is amazing. I can’t wait to gather all that I can find in the next few weeks. The Japanese also eat this, but for some reason with salt instead of sugar. Tomoe’s theory is that this oversight is due to the lack of availability of sugar in the old days. I just think Japanese people are crazy.

Finally, the photos below show some of the beans Tomoe has been spouting in the hopes of growing our own this year. Anybody know what they are?

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