Hiking Yatsugatake in November

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It was a great trip to the Yatsugatake. We went over Akadake this time, and the other side was wonderful. Highlights of the trip include Honzawa Onsen, where we took advantage of the unguarded open air hot-spring bath and almost freezing to sneak in a private bath (in daylight, people are lined up waiting to get in to this very tiny bath) under the (almost) full moon. It kept us warm until morning.

Day two was great. We covered some new terrain, some snow, and a slow-paced hike to the next hut which was already closed for the season, allowing us to camp for free.

Day three was great as well, getting up at 4 am and hiking to the top of a nearby peak to watch the sunrise. After that it was all downhill - six hours or so to Kobuchizawa station.

"Great" turned into "not so great", however, as we arrived at my favorite onsen later that evening to find that the owner had died a few days earlier (86 years old). The onsen was closed of course, but the widow let us in for a bath anyway because we were regulars. She told us some more stories about his life and how he saved the nearby river from illegal waste dumping. As we left she gave us some flowers from the funeral, and we headed into town for dinner at a nice little izakaya.

The widow has decided to go out of business for now, but told us we can come back and use the bath when we are in the area. Its sad for her to be alone in the house they moved to 35 years ago when they followed their dreams to quit the salary-man life in Tokyo, and sad for the world as that really was a truly unique bath/inn with so much to offer to visitors - courtesy of the interesting couple that ran it.

As you can see, we started at Umijiri station (5 hours and over 3,000 yen from Tokyo) and ended at Nagasaka (3 hours and 2,500 yen). In between was Honzawa Onsen (4-5 hours from the station) and Kiretto Hut (6 hours from Honzawa)

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