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I awoke in the morning filled with regret. Had I really given in to momentary weariness, wussed out, and cut half of my trip - just because I didn't want to "go down and back up"? I felt as though I wasn't even worthy of the piece-of-crap, fallen-apart-after-one-summer, cheap-ass boots I was wearing.

How could I make up for this?

Starting just before sunrise, hoping to reach the next clearing in time for some early light photos, it soon became clear what I could do to feel good about myself again: just keep hiking. What I hadn't realized was how much elevation gain and loss there actually was along the ridge between Hoouzan (2840m) and Kaikomagadake (2967m). It was far from "wussing out." It was also extremely beautiful.

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By noon I had taken at least twenty photos of Kaikomagadake. Every time I reached a clearing, it looked different - better, more beautiful than before. I had fewer photos of Kita-dake and the area I'd come from - not because they were less spectacular, but because the low southern sun made everything into silhouettes. If I had followed my original plan the day before, I would have missed this section of trail entirely.

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A Panda in the Southern Alps?

As I began my descent of Kaikomagadake, I thought the highlights of the day were behind me. But I was wrong.

Somewhere along the way (I remember the exact location, but I'm withholding that information in the name of endangered species preservation), I heard a strange sound - something between a half-bark and a half-howl. Definitely not a dog.

I slowed down, trying not to startle whatever it was. Then, in a clearing, I saw it: a panda bear - right there in front of me.

Granted, it was moving quickly into the woods, but what else could it have been? So big. So fluffy. So unmistakably black and white.

It paused just at the edge of the forest, shadowed but visible. I approached slowly, managing to get within about fifteen meters before it made its escape, clambering down a steep slope into the valley below and out of sight.

I spent the rest of the evening wondering what it all meant.

Had a panda escaped from a zoo? Surely I'd have heard about that.

Or was this something else?

A long-lost relative of the pandas in China - survivors of a time when Japan, Korea, and the mainland were still connected? Given the steep, remote terrain, it's possible a small population had survived for thousands of years without discovery... until today.

But now I face a dilemma.

If I publicize what I saw, I might become famous. They might even name this species the Japanese Cameron Panda. But doing so would almost certainly guarantee their extinction, as thousands of tourists would descend on this remote habitat, destroying what keeps them hidden and safe.

On the other hand, if this is a new species, isn't there an opportunity here for study, awareness, and maybe even protection?

What would you do?

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Summary Coming Soon

We're working writing up the summary of this adventure.

In the mean time, you may be interested in our:

Regular Customizable Rural Japan Itineraries ››
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Please contact One Life Japan if this area is someplace you think you would be interested to visit.

Is a One Life Japan Trip for You?

The majority of our bike, hike, and walking trips focus around a small farming village in Northern Nagano. We focus on local, environmentally friendly, active, and challenging activities. We share with you our love of the Japan countryside .

If you... have already seen your share of crowded temples and city streets, and if you're ready to get off the train or bus and move your body through some potentially challenging terrain - where people are focused on their everyday life instead of selling souvenirs to tourists - then One Life Japan is most likely perfect for you.

If you.... are willing to spend a night in a local's home or a family-run inn, where the owner is too busy with hunting or the rice harvest to fix a rip in the beat-up paper shoji door, then One Life Japan is most likely perfect for you.

If you... are willing to smile through a conversation with a farmer who doesn't speak English , or to spend a dinner in what eventually turns into a game of charades with the local baker, then One Life Japan is most likely perfect for you.

If you... are willing to spend an afternoon striking out on your own in unknown territory, where no one speaks English but is eager to help nonetheless - with just a map and the assurance that we'll be there if you need a hand - then One Life Japan may be perfect for you.

If you... are willing to wake up at 5 a.m. to see a country village come to life in the early morning light, or to spend an afternoon working in the rice field or gathering wild vegetables, then One Life Japan is most likely perfect for you.

If you... are willing to savor a simple meal of in-season, locally produced foods, then One Life Japan is most likely perfect for you.

If you... have read this far without thinking it's not for you - One Life Japan is definitely perfect for you .

We want to share the Japan we love. We can't promise five-star accommodation , or perfect cell-phone coverage the entire trip. We certainly don't promise a glimpse of the fabled "lost" Japan . We do promise an opportunity to see another side of modern-day Japan that you won't see in urban areas like Tokyo or Kyoto, or in towns that rely on tourism as their main industry.

Everything is waiting for you . It is up to YOU to take it in. We are here to support and facilitate your adventure - but it is up to you to make it your adventure . We'll listen to your needs, your likes and dislikes, and work to create the most personalized trip we can offer.